FAQ!

This is a list of some questions we have received over the years in response to some of our purchasing policies and listing of breed characteristics.  Please review our Purchasing Policies and Breed Traits pages, and then refer to this page if you would like some of your questions answered before contacting us directly.

Questions Related to Our Purchasing Policies:

“What if I want something specific in terms of coat color, eye color, gender, markings, etc.?”

Our response:  We cannot possibly predict from one litter to the next with any exact certainty what colors/genders, etc. will be born.  Once the puppies are born, some may be show prospects, while others may be selected by someone already in-line with a deposit.  So, the odds of us actually having a puppy meeting your criteria, having it be pet quality, and having it not be selected by another deposit holder are slim.  People who send us deposits are typically folks that are in no extreme hurry to have their puppy and are flexible to some degree with their preferences.  For example, someone may want a red and white male, but would also consider a red and white female.  Someone may really like blue eyes, but would consider brown or amber eyes instead.  On the other hand, if you are particular about the look of the puppy you are seeking, but are willing to wait until we have one meeting your description available, that would work.

We typically receive an average of 20-30 inquiries per week for puppies.  We take deposits from folks that we feel would provide the best homes, and that are willing to adhere to our purchasing policies.  If you are looking for someone who has puppies that aren't already spoken for, we're always happy to refer you on to another reputable breeder, keeping in mind that many of their purchasing policies will probably be the same as ours.  

 “What if I send you a deposit, and then…”

1.      You don’t have the color/gender I want in your next litter?

2.      I find a puppy from another breeder.

3.      Something happens in my life and I am not ready to get a puppy yet.

Our response:  We do not refund deposits (any money paid towards the purchase of a puppy).  If we don't have the puppy you are seeking in our next litter, your deposit moves up in the order as anyone already above you selects.  If you find a puppy from another breeder, first - I hope it is someone reputable, and second, your deposit will remain 'in-line' until which time you decide you are ready for a Siberian from us.  If something suddenly changes in your life and you have some unforeseen event that prohibits you from getting a puppy as soon as originally anticipated, then just let us know when you are ready.  Sorry, but we still do not refund your deposit.  So, the bottom line is - even after you've been approved to send us a deposit, if you have any doubts - don't send one!

“I don’t want to get my dog/puppy spayed or neutered because…”

1.      I don’t believe in spaying/neutering a dog.  I wouldn't do that to myself.  I don’t want to breed him/her, but I just don’t want to get the dog fixed.

Our response:  There are a number of benefits associated with getting your pet spayed or neutered.  It is not realistic to compare yourself to your pet in this situation.  Even if you don't plan on breeding your dog, accidents can happen.

2.      I want to have just one litter out of my dog before getting him/her fixed.

Our response:

This is a 'must read'-  http://barynuk.com/breeding.htm

3.      Getting a dog spayed/neutered makes them get fat…

Our response:  Too much food and not enough exercise makes dogs fat. 

4.      I already have a Siberian and I want to breed them.

Our response:  Does your current Siberian have hip and eye screens?  Where/From whom did you get your current Siberian?  In what activities does your current Siberian participate (conformation, agility, obedience, racing) and does he/she have any titles yet?  Does your Siberian meet the AKC breed standard for height, coat length, etc.?  What are your reasons for wanting to breed your current Siberian?  What are you looking for in a complementary male or female?  What will be your puppy placement policies?... (that's just a start).

And please visit:

                   http://www.geocities.com/Petsburgh/Fair/1901/chart.html

              http://www.dogplay.com/Breeding/ethics.html

5.      I have friends and neighbors who want a puppy.

Our response:  You would be surprised at how many people will pay compliments to you and your dog by saying they'd love an offspring, when in all reality, they would not be a suitable home for a Siberian.  What will you do if you  have more puppies than friends wanting them?  What will you do when your friends find that they can no longer keep their dog?

6.      If I buy a dog, I will do whatever I want with him/her.

Our response:  Then you should go buy a dog from someone who doesn't care enough about the dogs they produce to the degree that they would be willing to sell you a dog.

7.      If my dog isn’t spayed/neutered, I might be able to sell him/her some day for more money.

Our response:  Our policy is that if you can't keep your dog, and don't have a friend or family member who wants your dog, then they should be brought back to us to find a suitable home.  Pets are sold on limited registration - meaning if you bred that pet, the offspring would not be eligible for AKC registration.  If you are thinking you may eventually want to sell your dog, then don't attempt to buy one from us.  If you are thinking you will eventually sell your dog for a profit... wait, let me get up off the floor - I'm laughing too hard.

“What is the difference between a pet puppy and a show puppy?”

Our response:  Sometimes we get calls from people who tell us that they are only seeking a pet puppy, but want to buy a show prospect because they want a good looking dog.  And sometimes we get calls from people who say - I only want a pet because I'm not going to be showing or anything like that, as if to suggest that the pets are not as good as the show puppies.

The key is this - Unless you show dogs, you won't be able to tell the difference between the pet puppies and the show prospect puppies.  Pet puppies are no less wonderful than the show puppies, so please don't request to buy a show dog unless you have every intention of showing him/her.  Show prospect puppies are those that we feel most closely meet the AKC breed standard.  And unless you are intimately familiar with that standard, you won't know which are show quality and which are pet quality, people you meet on the street won't know the difference, and your dog, whether pet or show, will still unmistakably be a Siberian. 

Often times, when we breed a pair, one or both of the prospective parents are Champions.  That does not guarantee that every puppy in the litter will be show material.  At the same time, however, what that does for people seeking a pet is gives you the opportunity to own a well-bred dog that descends from parents and grandparents and great-grandparents that, in most cases, were shown, temperament tested and health tested.  This increases the chances that your puppy will also be good looking, well tempered, and healthy.  So, even if you're looking for 'just a pet', the background of your dog is important.  If you bought that pet from someone who simply had two pets that they got from the pet store or a backyard breeder, that breeder won't know anything about your puppy's lineage beyond just some names on a pedigree... if they even took the time to look at that.

“I am toying with the idea of getting into breeding, but I’m not sure yet.  Should I get a pet or a show dog?”

Our response: Getting involved with breeding is synonymous with getting involved in some sort of competitive activity with your Siberian.  We expect people who want to 'get into' breeding to also 'get into' something additional - such as conformation, agility, obedience, etc.  And it is a lot of work!  It can be rewarding, but it definitely has its ups and its downs.  For that reason, we want folks to be sure about what they're getting into.  Also, breeders typically don't sell their best show prospects to someone who isn't sure if they even want to get involved. So, if you approach a breeder about getting a show prospect, be certain that you are willing to go the distance.  If you are only 'toying' with the idea of getting involved in breeding/showing, we would recommend that you first visit a few kennels, attend a few shows, do some more research, and then decide if it would be right for you.  For us, you would be expected to outline what kind of breeder you intend to become:

http://www.geocities.com/Petsburgh/Fair/1901/chart.html

http://www.dogplay.com/Breeding/ethics.html

“Once I have submitted the online questionnaire, how do I continue with your application process?”

Our response: If you submit the questionnaire, you will receive a general response that directs you where to find our purchasing policies, breed traits, health guarantee, deposit policies, etc., and instructs you to contact us if you would like to continue with the application process.  Once you have reviewed all of the information, you should either call or send an email to let us know that you have looked at the information, and would like to proceed.  At that point, we need to speak to you by phone or in person if we haven't already done so.  We review all of the information, and as long as we're 'on the same page' with everything, we can accept a deposit from you.

The online questionnaire is available at:  http://www.siberianhusky.ws/application.html

“Once I’ve given a deposit, how long will it be until I will be able to get a puppy?”

Our response:  There are many factors that influence this answer including, but not limited to - the number of litters bred, the number of breedings that 'take', the number of puppies born, the number of puppies that are show prospects, the number of deposit holders already in-line in front of you, the preferences of those deposit holders, and luck.  We can give you an estimate of how long it may be, but there is no guarantee, especially if you are very specific about your color/gender preferences.

“What should I bring with me when I come to pick up my puppy?”

Our response:  2 copies of our contract, a small collar, a leash, and any other times you may need for your trip.

The contracts are available at:  http://www.siberianhusky.ws/application.html

“There is a guy in the newspaper selling his puppies for $350.  Will you negotiate on your price?”  

Or

 “I can’t afford to spend more than $300 for a puppy.”…

Our response:  We don't negotiate on price.  Sometimes, we do have young adults or older puppies for sale for less than our normal purchase price, but simply because you have found a cheaper puppy elsewhere is no reason for us to reduce ours.  Someone selling their dogs for extremely cheap prices probably doesn't offer a comprehensive health guarantee (minimum of 2 years), probably doesn't do health screenings, probably doesn't do anything with their dogs other than breed them, probably doesn't get their puppies vet checked, vaccinated, wormed, socialized, probably knows nothing about their dogs' grandparents, and probably sells to first come, first served, without any regard to whether or not you intend to tie your dog outside around a tree!  You get what you pay for.  Our purchase price is $800 - and that is the average price for pet puppies out here in the East from reputable breeders.  I know some folks who sell for slightly less, and I know more folks who sell pets for significantly more.  If you can’t afford to pay for a dog, I would be concerned that you wouldn’t also be able to afford to pay for the food, veterinary, and other related expenses associated with properly raising a dog.

“Once I get my puppy spayed/neutered, what do I need to send to you?”

Our response:  We need a copy of your receipt from the vet, or something from the vet on letterhead stating that the procedure was performed.  Then, within a few months, you'll get your registration.  We typically wait until we've gotten the majority of the verifications from pet owners so that we can sit down and do an entire batch without distraction.

“What kind of a health guarantee do you offer?”

Our response:  The health guarantee is downloadable from -

http://www.siberianhusky.ws/application.html

It spans 5 years for hip dysplasia any eye defect that causes blindness, or any life-threatening defect.  It is contingent upon spay/neuter for pets, and yearly updates from purchasers on the dog's health and behavior.

“What do your puppies ‘have’ when they leave?”

Our response:  Puppies are vet checked, vaccinated, wormed, and well-socialized when they leave.  They come with the 5 year health guarantee mentioned above.  A small bag of food accompanies your puppy, as well. 

“After I purchase my puppy, are you available to answer any questions I may have?”

Our response:  Yes.  We are available to answer questions you may have throughout the life of your dog.

“What if something happens in my life and I can no longer keep my Siberian?”

Our response:  Our policy is that if you don't have a friend of family member who can accommodate your dog, you make arrangements to get him/her back to us so that we can arrange for a good home.  We ask that our dogs are never surrendered to a shelter or rescue.

When we go over our policies with folks and explain this one, often people insist that they would never be in a position where they would give up their dogs.  But, life can surprise us sometimes!  And we have had dogs come back over the years due to divorce, house fires, job change/sudden move, sudden change in health or health of a family member, etc.  So, it does happen.  We do need you to have a contingency plan in place for getting your dog to us.  In some cases, we can meet you; however, since we do have dogs out of state, we need you to ensure a safe transport back.  Please, please, please ensure that your dog is current on vaccines and preventatives.  Sometimes, it can become like a revolving door here between dogs coming in for breedings, pets that are sometimes returned, show dogs that have been out at shows and come home, dogs that were at a co-owner's residence, etc.  Dogs can carry many viruses and parasites.  We do our best to maintain a strong worming regimine, as well as occasional use of preventatives, such as Frontline and Interceptor.  However, as long as dogs coming in are free from these problems, we shouldn't have to keep our dogs on these preventatives year round.  So, it is important that your dog remain current on vaccines and parasite control, not only for the health of your dog, but also to help us out should we suddenly need to accept a dog back in cases of emergency.

“Do you ship puppies on a plane?”

Our response: Yes.  It typically costs around $350.00 for freight, crate, health certificate, and airport transport.  Puppies can be shipped after 8 weeks of age.  Airlines have temperature restrictions to consider for arranging an agreeable flight date and time.  

“Do you require a home inspection before you would sell me a dog/puppy?”

Our response:  If you live close enough for us to do that, a visit would be ideal.  But, in most cases, that just isn't realistic or feasible.  So, we ask that you send us photos of your home/yard, etc. either by email or snail-mail.

“Can I come visit you before committing to a deposit?”

Our response:  Of course!  We love to meet folks, and if you've gone through the application process and are approved to send a deposit, that means that we feel you'd make a good home.  The best time to catch us is weekends.  Evenings are a possibility during the week; however, some nights can be pretty booked up.  Give us a call and we can discuss times and dates.  Many folks ask if they can bring their current dog to visit as well.  Because of all of the viruses and parasites that dogs can carry - typically unknown to their owners, we cannot have other dogs come to visit young puppies.  However, if we don't have puppies, and you can provide proof that your dog's vaccines are current, fecal is negative, and has no external parasites, then your dog can make the trip out; however, he/she will not be able to run inside of our exercise areas.

More information on our purchasing policies:

http://www.jalerransiberians.com/huskyforsalereq.html

and

http://www.siberianhusky.ws/policies.html

Questions Related to the Breed Characteristics:

“I have a dog that I can no longer keep.  Will you buy him, or help me sell him?”

Our response:  First, you should contact the breeder.  If the breeder won't take him/her back, then your next step is to contact rescue.  www.siberianrescue.com

We've done rescuing occasionally in the past when we haven't had puppies, and it taught us that backyard breeders and puppy mills don't have to accept responsibility for the puppies and dogs that they produce.  So, not only would we not be interested in purchasing such a dog, we wouldn't even take them for free.  That may sound a little harsh to someone who is only looking for a helping hand, but it's because the reality of irresponsible breeding practices coupled with people taking irresponsible steps towards placing their dogs is equally as harsh.  Not only that, but dogs often carry viruses and parasites (both internal and external), and we'd like to reduce the amount that our dogs may be exposed to such things.  We'll happily direct you to your nearest Siberian Rescue organization.

“I’ve heard that Siberians do better with another dog/puppy as a companion… should I get two?”

Our response:  There are advantages and disadvantages to getting two at the same time.

When I keep puppies, or bring puppies in, I do so in pairs.  Since Siberians are pack animals, and they enjoy companionship, it makes the adjustment of coming to a new home easier when there are two instead of one.  For us, it is just as easy to do for two what we would do for one.  However, for people who have never owned a Siberian before, this may be overwhelming.  Siberians are demanding of your time and attention.  They require consistent training and discipline.  Obedience classes are highly recommended.  And, your expenses for food, veterinary, and supplies are, of course, doubled.

“Am I required to crate train my dog or puppy?”

Our response:  No, you aren't 'required' to crate train your puppy; however, it is highly recommended for both the safety of your puppy and your house.  It is also a great tool to assist with housebreaking.  There are many dangers for a puppy - toxic plants, carpet fibers in the lungs, a sock in the lower intestine, shocks from electric cords.  Many of those same dangers apply to your house - nice woodwork, children’s' toys, furniture, carpet, etc.  If you aren't directly supervising your puppy, then he/she should be in a crate or in a puppy-proofed room.  Obviously, your puppy shouldn't be in the crate all the time!  So, be sure you will have enough time to devote to your puppy/dog.

Crate Training Link:  http://www.syntari.com/crate.htm

“I am having trouble training my Siberian…”

1.      Housebreaking

Our response:  There is information on housebreaking here -

http://www.jalerransiberians.com/huskyinfo.html

2.      Puppy nipping/biting

Our response:  Puppies of all breeds like to play-bite.  And, unfortunately, if this behavior is not addressed, it can become very problematic, as puppies do have sharp teeth.  Puppies should be encourage to play with appropriate toys and chew on appropriate items.  Puppies should be rewarded for appropriate behavior and corrected for inappropriate behavior - every time.  When you come to pick up your puppy, or when we speak on the phone, we can go over some techniques for behavior modification.

3.      Jumping up

Our response:  This is an excellent example of a behavior for which obedience classes can be highly recommended.  Classes give you the opportunity to practice correcting the inappropriate behavior and rewarding the appropriate behavior.  If you're at home and the mailman comes to your door to deliver a package, you're not going to ask him to stand there and wait for a moment until you can get the leash on your dog and apply the correction as he jumps up on the guy!  However, in a class, this process can be practiced in a controlled manner, with the benefit of socializing your dog at the same time.

4.      Walking on a leash

Our response:  Siberians are sled pullers!  So, leash training is very important so that your dog will not end up walking you.  We begin with young puppies.  The first time they experience a collar and leash, they do what we call the 'fishy dance' - they sort of look like a fish that has just been hooked and comes out of the water - flopping around trying to shake the line.  However, with the proper encouragement, they get the hang of it.  Once your puppy gets the hang of it, do not assume that they are completely leash trained.  If you don't routinely take your puppy for walks on lead, he/she will not behave appropriately each and every time you decide to walk him/her.  Your puppy might be doing very well at 4 months of age, but if you wait until 6 months of age before practicing that skill further, the result will likely not be the same.

5.      Coming when I call him/her

Our response:  Siberians should not be trusted off lead because they do not consistently recall.  But, that is not to say that you should not work on the come command.  Should your puppy/dog slip his collar or lead, escape, or somehow get loose, you will want to improve your odds of saving your dog.  Siberians tend to want to do things only on their terms, or when there's something in it for them.  So, practicing the skill of coming when called can be tricky.  If your puppy or dog decides not to come when called, how will you correct this behavior if you are unable to catch him/her?  You don't want to chase your dog and have him fear you, or think it is a fun game.  So, practicing this skill with a long flexi lead which gives you better control is advisable, with working towards recall off-lead in a securely fenced area.  But, even if your dog becomes skilled at coming when called, even when off lead in a fenced area, please do not be fooled into thinking your dog would do the same outside of a fenced area.  Top agility trainers will confirm that it only takes once for a Siberian to realize that you don't have the control, and they're gone.  Additionally, their prey drive and running instincts will often over-ride any amount of training they may have received.

“I want to train my Siberian to be an off lead dog…”

1.      I used to have a Siberian that stayed in the yard.

Our response:  You got lucky.  Do not assume that every Siberian will stick around for you.

2.      I think it is cruel to keep a dog fenced in.

Our response: It's cruel and illegal to have a dog that is not under direct control, as it puts the dog in danger.  If your Siberian runs from you, he/she may cause an accident, bite your neighbor's prize lop-eared bunny, be shot by a farmer, end up in a shelter, or never be seen again.

3.      I feel I am a pretty good animal trainer, and I can train my Siberian off-lead.

Our response: Top agility trainers in the country will tell you that a Siberian is never 100% trustworthy off-lead.  With that knowledge, it would be selfish of you to believe that you be successful with over-riding your Siberian's instincts.

“What if I don’t have a fenced in yard?”

Our response:  You can still have a Siberian... you just have to take your dog outside on a leash every time for bathroom and exercise.

“What things can I do to prepare for my new puppy/adult?”

Our response:  There is a great list of 'homecoming preparations' on this link-

http://www.jalerransiberians.com/huskyinfo.html

“How are Siberians with other animals?”

1.      Cats

Our response:  If a Siberian is raised with a cat and his or her predatory behavior is closely monitored, it will typically work out okay.  But, that's not a guarantee, and you do need to ensure that the puppy respects your authority.  When you introduce them, watch that the puppy is not encouraged to chase the cat, should he/she run.

2.      Other Dogs

Our response:  Siberians are pack animals, so they establish a hierarchy... top dog, middle dog, low dog, and so forth.  When any dog meets another dog, there are certain communicative behaviors you can look for, such as posturing, position of the ears, hair standing up, some mild growling and/or whimpering, etc.  If any two dogs both agree on their 'status', then usually there won't be anything beyond that.  However, if any two dogs don't agree on their status, then they may not get along.  As a general rule, Siberians enjoy companionship and prefer to have another dog around to play with.  But, that kind of harmony is dependent on many variables.  Usually, you will run the greatest risk of a problem with two male dogs.  Though that's not to say that a male and a female is always a safe bet.  We've had some pretty dominant females over the years, as well.  This is also assuming that the introduction of two dogs takes place in a controlled environment where both dogs feel comfortable, and that there are no chew toys or food to be protective over, as well.  Again - lots of variables to consider.

3.      Small Animals

Our response:  Siberians are predatory.... cats, bunnies, birds, and other small animals are typically fair game.  Cats (see above) and some other animals can live with a Siberian under certain circumstances that the owner must ensure and monitor.  I, personally, would not trust my Siberians with a nice fluffy bunny hopping around the house, even if I had trained them that a cat was off limits... but I've heard of it.

4.      Big Animals

Our response: Siberians are not herding dogs, so I'm not sure of the wisdom in letting Siberians run freely with cows, horses, or even sheep, for that matter.  Not to mention, most corrals or paddocks for horses aren't typically secure enough to also contain a Siberian.  But, this is an area where we don't have much background or expertise, so we cannot say with all certainty that Siberians would not do alright around larger animals if properly socialized.

“How are Siberians with Children?”

Our response:  We have three children, and as a general rule, our Siberians do make great family pets.  But, there is a high degree of training and consistency involved with ensuring that the Siberian respects your children and that your children respect your Siberian.  Siberians can be possessive of toys and food, and they may the children as being lower on the totem pole, so to speak.  So, as the 'alpha' in the pack, you need to reinforce the commands of children so that the dog considers the children as being above them... otherwise, most Siberians will 'walk all over them if given the opportunity.  You will want to monitor a Siberian's possible tendencies towards possessiveness of chew toys and food.

“What is the difference between a Siberian Husky and…”

Siberian Husky Breed Standard:  http://www.akc.org/breeds/siberian_husky/index.cfm

1.      Alaskan Malamute

Our response:  Mals are bred to pull heavier loads over short distances... Siberians are bred to pull lighter loads over longer distances.  The AKC breed standard defines the appearance of each breed in an effort to maintain its initial purpose, and also to maintain the differences between each breed.  So, for example, Mals are bigger and can have a curled tail. 

AKC breed standard: http://www.akc.org/breeds/alaskan_malamute/index.cfm

2.      Alaskan Klee Kai

Our response:  This breed isn't recognized by the AKC yet, but they're referred to as 'mini huskies'.   

3.      American Eskimo Dog

Our response: 

AKC breed standard:  http://www.akc.org/breeds/american_eskimo_dog/index.cfm

4.      Alaskan Husky

Our response:  This breed isn't recognized by the AKC yet, but they're typically bred for racing purposes, and contain backgrounds including Siberians, Malamutes, and other Nordic breeds, as well as some 'hound' - such as greyhound, in some cases, for increased speed.

“What are the different colors of Siberians - coat and eyes?”

Our response:  Siberians can be registered as being-

black and white

gray and white

white

red and white

sable and white

agouti and white

A great site for comparing the different colors is:  www.huskycolors.com

Many breeders misidentify gray and white puppies as being agouti and white either out of ignorance, or in an attempt to make their puppies sound more rare.  The same is true of breeders that misidentify a red and white puppy as being sable and white.  You will typically find true sables and agoutis in racing lines.  And very few reputable breeders produce white, sable, or agouti puppies because it is not the goal of any reputable breeder to produce certain colors.  You can still find them, but when looking for a puppy, your primary concerns should first be the health and temperament before worrying as much about colors.

Black and whites range in shade from dark to light... dark being sometimes referred to as 'jet', and light being referred to as dilute.  Black and white dogs will always have black noses (or black and white with snow nose) unless there is a pigment problem.  Their eyes will be either blue or dark brown, or some combination thereof.  Black and white dogs will not have brown noses.  Blacks are considered to be a solid gene.

Gray and whites, who actually come from the black and white gene, can range in shade from dark to light.  Darker grays are often called 'wolf gray', and light grays are often called 'silvers'.  The same is true of gray and whites as black and whites with respect to nose and eye color.  Sometimes, gray and white dogs will have a small amount of 'buff' or 'tan' coloring around their ears.  This does not make them agouti or sable!  Grays are considered to be a dilute gene.

Red and whites come from a recessive gene.  Anytime a red male is bred to a red female, the resulting offspring will be red and whites.  Reds range in shade from dark to light.  Dark reds are often called 'chocolates' or 'coppers', and light reds are often referred to as 'champagne' colored.  If you see an ad from a Siberian breeder that has 'brown' puppies... they are simply misidentified dark red puppies.  Reds will always have brown noses (can also have a snow nose), and will have either blue or amber eyes (light brown), or some combination thereof.  If you see an ad from a Siberian breeder that says that they have green eyed puppies, they are actually just light brown.  Dark reds are from solid genes, and light reds are from dilute genes.

Depending on the genes of a white, they can either have black noses with blue or dark brown eyes, or brown noses with blue or light brown (amber) eyes.

In order to identify a true sable, a guard hair must be analyzed, and it must have a red base with a black tip.  On the huskycolors.com website, there are great photos of sable dogs, as well as agoutis - which are referred to as being 'dirty-faced' dogs.

From there, Siberians can also have different types of markings on their bodies and faces.  All colors and markings are acceptable by the AKC standard!

A piebald is a Siberian that is white with either black, gray, or red splotches of any of the possible shades.  There are also saddlebacks, clover-leaves, splashes, shawls, and many more types of markings.  Snow noses (mentioned above) is used to describe Siberians with a strip down the middle of their noses where pigment is lacking in comparison to that on the rest of their nose.

Eyes can also be:

bi-eyed (one blue, with the other being dark brown or light brown - depending on coat color)

parti-eyed (one eyes is part blue and part dark or light brown)

"What is a wooly, and do you produce them?"

Our response:  A wooly is a coat type.  The Siberian's coat looks similar to that of the dog on TV, "Lassie".  It is very long.  It is considered to be a fault in the breed, and reputable breeders do not intentionally try to produce it.

Further information on the breed traits is available at:

http://www.jalerransiberians.com/huskyinfo.html

Questions Related to Our Breeding Practices:

“What is the difference between a backyard breeder, puppy mill, reputable breeder, or rescue organization?”

Our response:  This site outlines the differences -

http://www.geocities.com/Petsburgh/Fair/1901/chart.html

“What health screenings do you perform on your dogs?”

Our response: Eyes and hips, and sometimes thyroid.

Eyes: Our dogs are screened by a canine ophthalmologist (a doggie eye doctor), typically on a yearly basis.  ACVO means that the canine ophthalmologist was accredited and official.  CERF means that we took the extra stop of sending that ACVO form into the Canine Eye Registry Foundation, and paid the extra money to have an additional form generated and the information added to their database so that it can be accessed by anyone online at the CERF or OFFA website.  On our site, under health and events, we list every dog we have tested and whether or not they were found to be 'clear' or 'not clear'/affected.

There is a problem in the breed with juvenile cataracts, among a few other eye problems.  The 'nice' thing about JC's is that you typically don't even know your dog is affected... unless you check.  So, it typically doesn't interfere too dramatically with the dog's quality of life, and they typically aren't progressive to the point where they cause blindness.  There are some rather expensive surgeries available to correct some of the eye defects in the breed; however, there is no guarantee that the surgery will be successful.  We also ask purchasers to get their pets and show dogs screened for eye defects, as well as ask their general vets to carefully examine the eyes during routine visits in case they detect a possible problem and recommend a visit to the canine ophthalmologist.  We keep track of this information in a data base and it helps us to evaluate our breeding program.

Just because two adult Siberians with clear eyes are bred does not guarantee that they will not produce affected offspring.  Numerous studies have been performed at many veterinary institutions, and to date, we do not have an answer about its mode of inheritance, other than to note that it is not simple recessive.  Most studies suggest that it is poly-genetic, with many factors influencing how it is passed on.  So, until a genetic marker is identified, all we can do is breed 'clear to clear', and monitor the number of offspring that are produced who are affected.

Another important consideration is numbers/statistics.  If a particular breeding pair produce 5 puppies, and al 5 are clear, that does not guarantee that if that same breeding is repeated, that all 5 puppies won't be affected the next time.  Some breeder workshops will suggest that if you have a basis of 10 puppies, and all 10 puppies are clear of any health problems, it is a pretty safe breeding.  It does not mean, however, that if bred to a different male or female, that a dog may not then produce a large number of affected dogs.

If a reputable breeder tells you that there are no eye problems in their lines, I would ask to see records of all of the screened dogs (including pets!).  If a backyard breeder tells you that there are no eye problems in their lines, I would ask if they ever officially checked! 

Hips:  After age two, our dogs go into our regular vet for an x-ray.  The x-ray is sent to the OFA, Orthopedic Foundation for Animals, where it is evaluated by three independent veterinarians who were specially trained to analyze hip x-rays.  The evaluators give the x-ray a rating of either Excellent, Good, Fair, Poor, or Dysplastic.  Only dogs who receive a rating of Excellent or Good should be used for breeding.  The incidence rates of hip dysplasia in the breed are relatively low - around 2%, and lower in the lines of reputable breeders who have checked hips for many generations.  However, it is still 'in' the breed, and breeders should do their part to check.

Note:  Now, all that being said, and in all honesty, there have been a couple of instances where I have done intentional breedings in the past on dogs that weren't age two yet.  For the cases when this occurred, typically, it was in a case where the dog was close to two, I knew that their parents, grandparents, great-grandparents, etc. had good or excellent hips, and there was a specific reason for going ahead with the breeding.  For example, some years ago, I went through a divorce, and was not able to get each dog in for hip and eye screenings as routinely as I would've normally - so I settled for a thorough vet check at the time the females came in season, and got the ACVO or OFA test immediately following.  I informed any prospective buyers of this.  There have been instances where I have done a breeding before an OFA because a particular dog who was visiting me, or on a lease, would no longer be available by the next time a female would be coming in season... and again, have gotten the OFA soon after.  There are many other breeders that are considered reputable, who have also bent the rules slightly in certain situations.  Whether or not everyone will admit it is another story...

For everything, there is a range of acceptability.  There are folks that are very conservative, and some that are very liberal.  In my opinion, folks who are very liberal would be considered backyard breeders... and folks who are very conservative would be considered very reputable breeders.  There are some breeders who follow some of the reputable breeding criteria to the letter, no exceptions.... and some that incorporate some of the criteria some of the time, ...  and some that incorporate most of the criteria most of the time.  Ultimately, it's up to every purchaser/exhibitor to determine whether or not someone's breeding practices are acceptable, and whether or not they are honest about what information they provide to people.  If I ever get the time, I would like to either find, or develop, a scoring rubric for evaluating breeding practices.  For example - 5 points would be given for a dog who has an OFA with a PI (permanent identification)... 4 points for an OFA without PI... etc. - something like that. 

You can check OFA/CERF results at:

http://www.offa.org

“What do you do with your dogs, other than just breed them?”

Our response:  Our dogs participate in conformation competitions.  In conformation, judges compare dogs in an effort to select the one that best represents the breed standard.  Points are awarded towards a championship.  We have bred, owned, and co-owned a number of dogs who are American and/or Canadian Champions, as well as titled dogs in many overseas countries.

“How many litters do you produce a year?”

Our response:  It all depends on the year.  Some years, we've had 1 litter, and in other years we've had 7 litters.  The average is 3-4.  Sometimes we have co-bred litters where there is a co-owner on the mother.

“How often do you breed your females?”

Our response:  Although it is generally considered acceptable to breed a female every other heat, there is really no supported scientific basis for this practice.  Some reproductive specialists argue that too much time in between litters can actually be detrimental because the reproductive system begins to 'slow down', so to speak.  Nonetheless, I'm certainly not suggesting that it is 'okay' to breed a female on every heat all the time.  It makes sense that giving a female adequate time to recover after a litter before breeding her again would be in her best interests, as well as those of the resulting puppies.  So, that being said, we typically breed our females once a year.  However, there have been some instances we have decided to do a breeding on a female 'back-to-back'... meaning two heats in a row.  For example, sometimes a female has a litter of 1... and if there were no complications with that litter, there's no reason she can't be bred again on her next heat.  And, if we do a back-to-back breeding, then the intent would always be to then skip the next heat.

“Where do your puppies/dogs live, or how are they maintained?”

Our response:  Our puppies are raised in the house in the kitchen/laundry room area.  Our adults are 'in and out', unless we have puppies, at which time they are mostly outside.  We have 5 acres with two large 10,000 sq. ft. exercise areas, 5 indoor runs (4X12) using pine bedding, 6 outdoor roofed runs (4X12), and one roofed cemented 20 X 20 section.  We do have some dogs that have arrived to us when older that were strictly kennel dogs, and we have some adults that have been with us since birth... and are often 'in and out'. 

It is important for people who have never visited dog breeders before to go visit a few to get a true idea for how dogs are maintained.  Over the years, we have many people who want to come visit us and meet our dogs, etc.  and we're happy to meet people ahead of time whenever possible.  But, we also feel compelled to tell people that although we have a very nice set up for our dogs, there are people who believe that they would rather purchase a dog from a backyard breeder who got their dogs from pet stores because that breeder tells them that their dogs never have to go into a kennel situation.  There is a difference between people who are just breeders, just pet owners, and breeders who treat their dogs like pets.  We do our best to treat our dogs like pets, but doing that cannot possibly involve all dogs being inside the house at all times.  When females come in season, they have to be separated.  When males come in for stud services, they have to be separated.  And sometimes, a particular set of dogs just won't get along, and they have to be separated.  For these reasons, having all the dogs in the house at all times is just not practical.  So, we hope that people can develop realistic expectations for all breeders - such as being able to meet clean, healthy, happy dogs.  And, also that people will visit a few breeders to compare.  I've toured over 30 breeders in the US and Canada, and I can say that I've been to see a few kennels that were much nicer than ours, and many that weren't.  When we first started out, I didn't 'believe' in kennel runs.  But, eventually I learned that if you plan on safely managing dogs that are being shown and bred, it really is a necessity. 

We are licensed by the state, which means that twice a year we are inspected to ensure that everything is up to par. 

This, however, does not ensure that dogs who come here for breedings, transports, co-ownerships, etc. are completely free from parasites.  So, in 2007, we are going to begin to require that any dog coming onto the premises has proof of current vaccines, a negative fecal exam or verification of internal parasite preventative, and veterinary verification of having no external parasites or use of external parasite preventative.  In 2006, we had an abundance of dogs coming in and out for many reasons.  Although none of the other dogs that were here had exhibited any signs of any parasites, one of the visitors was reported to have contracted an external parasite during her 7 month stay with us.  With the large numbers of dogs that had come and gone for breedings and babysitting favors to others, and with the dogs going to eye clinics, vet offices, and groomers where they are around many other dogs, and the fact that the owner did not provide any preventatives, it is entirely possible that she was exposed to one of the many things that dogs can carry.  Some of them can be microscopic, and with some external parasites, dogs may not itch or scratch, but can, in time, develop skin irritations.  Needless to say, once we found out, we contacted everyone who'd had a dog or puppy come through here to make sure it hadn't spread.  Fortunately, nobody else had experienced a problem, but it was very expensive to have all of our dogs checked for parasites to ensure everyone here was healthy.  Where it originated - I doubt we'll ever know. 

Of course, as usual, politics always come into play when dealing with other breeders, and it was suggested that we must automatically have mangy, unhealthy dogs running around everywhere, (yes, we welcome people to come see these poor, awful critters, and yes, that would be sarcasm), however, the incident forced us to set new guidelines for any dogs coming in  - for any purpose.  Since we have more space than dogs, it's far to easy to assist friends and puppy purchasers when they travel or get into a bind, and 'babysit' their dogs.  We don't board them, don't take any money - we've just routinely done this in an effort to help folks out.  It's better to be safe than sorry, so now all dogs coming in will need to meet those criteria, and if there is any length of stay involved, the owner will be required to obtain internal and external parasite preventatives for their dogs throughout their stays. 

“How many dogs do you own?”

Our response:  It varies, but typically at our house, there are 10-15 dogs depending on the day.  Of those dogs, we own around 10 (may change as puppies stay, etc.).  Often, there are dogs visiting us for breedings, socialization, and as favors to other breeders who may be traveling, etc.  There are also dogs that we 'co-own' who may reside with their co-owners for parts of the year.

“Do you belong to any clubs or breed registries?”

Our response:  Our dogs are AKC registered, and we have some dogs that are both Canadian and American Kennel Club registered.  We're also members if the International Siberian Husky Club (ISHC) www.ishclub.org  We used to be members of the Clarion Area Kennel Club, but it disbanded some years ago, and now there is only the Clarion County Canine Obedience Club.

“What are your deciding factors when determining which dogs will be bred?”

Our response:  Health, Conformation, and Temperament.  We look at health backgrounds and temperament backgrounds and pedigrees.  Then, we evaluate the strengths and weaknesses of each dog and their potential partners in hopes of finding the best possible compliment according to the breed standard (see above).  We do not breed for coat or eye color.

“How do you evaluate temperaments?"

Our response:  We use this tool -

http://www.bogartsdaddy.com/bouvier/BuyersGuide/Puppy_Aptitude_Test.htm

And Last, But Not Least… Our Most Common Question:

"How in the world do you say your kennel name?"

Our response:

Jalerran is a combination of the middle names of some of the human members of our family; Jane, Lee, Rae, and Ann. We are pronouncing it JA (Juh)......LERR (lair)........ AN (en or an). It does not appear to be similar to the name of any Siberian kennel we're aware of, and we're hoping that it is not a swear word in some foreign language.

http://www.jalerransiberians.com/aboutjalerran.html

Contact Information

jessica@csonline.net

 814-229-9123